Life in a Gite - Caryl and Jose Bucksbaum

Northern Burgundy is a tranquil place. St. Germain-le Rocheux is surrounded by deep forests, but fields also cover the rolling hills. In mid-May the rapeseed is in full bloom, so acres of bright yellow flowers contrast with other dark green crops. We have to drive to Chatillons-sur-Seine for groceries, a round trip of about 32 miles, but every inch of the way is beautiful.

St; Germain, population about 90, is pretty. Though small, it gives the impression of space; A small 13th Century Romanesque church stands at the top of the hill, and it is obvious that the village values it. Fresh white paint coats its walls, ceilings and columns; its candlearbra gleam; no dust covers its paintings and sculptures, and bouquets of iris and syringa, roses and bridal wreath fill china vases in front of each altar.

Our gite, which has small daisies, buttercups and purple flowers surrounding it, makes me think "Beatrix Potter." Although we haven't seen any rabbits on the property, we do have a family of snails living under a stand, and a lizard that suns itself on the stone facade. Bees come as soon as the sun strikes the flowers. The house was built at the beginning of the 17th Century. It has been modernized but the good-sized livingroom retains a stone floor, a beamed ceiling, and a large open fireplace.

After breakfast and reading in the garden, we usually go on expeditions. The one that was the most fun involved our playing a part in history, the parade that effected and celebrated the transfer of the famous Vase de Vix from its old home to a new museum across town in Chatillon. The vase is the largest known bronze urn of Greco-italo craftmanship. It stands 5 ft high and once was the property of a Celtic princess who lived in the area 2500 years ago.. As befits a treasure, it led off the parade. Encased in a huge plexiglass box, it rode on a flatbed truck. City leaders and civic organizations followed, carrying banners. Next came scores of children outfitted in white robes and colorful hoods, who I think represented Celtic princes and princesses. At the very end came the spectators who decided to become escorts.

A small band dressed in funky sleeveless vests, baggy pants or wrap around skirts and fedoras rode on the flatbed with the vase. Mostly they played Celtic airs, but the tune that heralded the unveiling of the vase and accompanied it for the first three blocks was "When Johnny Comes Marching Home." The fifes played fervently, and everyone had a great time;

During our time here we have also visited a ducal palace, two abbeys, now defunct, a wash house, and several chateaus. These trips have given us a glimpse of French history and the desire to learn more. The things that will remain with me forevever, though, are closer to the here and now: the beautiful scenery of Burgundy, our cozy gite, the well-loved church of St Germain, and the once in a lifetime, grand parade of the fabulous Vase de Vix.